Nice is a pretty wonderful place any time of year, but I have a new love for the month of February. Carnaval is simply spectacular, as are the Fête du Citron in nearby Menton and the Combat Naval Fleuri in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Fortunately they all take place during the same 2-week period, so with a little organization, you can experience all three!
As an added bonus, the weather is quite temperate, thanks to the balmy breeze from the Baie des Anges, and a bit of fraîcheur feels much better than the hot, sticky days of July and August!
Carnaval!
Nice was made for Carnaval! The city loves bright colors, music and celebrations, so it is only fitting that Carnaval has been a tradition here since 1873. It was then that a local committee lead by Andriot Saëtone gave structure to the event, inaugurating the first “King of Carnaval” where a giant papier-mâché king led the parades. Previously Carnaval had been a loose schedule of indulgences before Lent. In fact, this pagan festival can be traced back all the way to 1294 when Charles II, the Count of Provence, wrote about experiencing "joyous festivities" in Nice before Lent.
Each year there is a theme, and in 2025 the theme is “Le Roi des Océans” - King of the Oceans - a nod to the third United Nations Ocean Conference (UNOC3) which will take place in Nice from June,9-13 2025. (It is co-organized by the governments of France and Costa Rica).
In true French fashion, this is something to be savored. Carnaval boasts a variety of events spanning a bit more than two weeks. (The 2025 dates were from February 12 to March 2nd)
With some niçois words thrown in, the schedule may not be obvious, even to the French! And some advanced planning is required, as the parades that used to take place on the Promenade des Anglais for the public are now closed, ticketed events in the aftermath of the 2016 attack during the Fête Nationale. (The city is still quite traumatized by that event, and makes security the highest priority).
The official kickoff begins at the Maison de Carnaval, where volunteers work all year to create magnificent floats. The floats are massive, and the hangar is too short for the head of the king and queen to be attached inside, so the public gathers to see them in all of their splendor for the first time just outside. There are marching bands and plenty of confetti to mark the occasion as the king and queen are revealed at “Le Grand Charivari”. We made our way to this quartier quite unknown to us, guided by children wearing costumes varying from princesses to dinosaurs. Eventually the floats featuring the King and Queen are brought down and placed on either side of Apollo at Place Masséna, where they watch over the festivities for the duration.
A spin on the giant ferris wheel is a must - it is a great way to see the floats, Vieux Nice and of course the dazzling Mediterranean Sea.
The Village du Carnaval opens a few days later. There are plenty of activities and food stands for children lining the Promenade du Paillon. It is open for the duration as well, and entry is free.
Papier mâché characters can also be found throughout the city ... with even some popular Americans making the list!
“La Carnavalina” requires a definition, non? “It’s the Carnival virus, a virus that spreads joy, smiles, treats, and floral scents, making you want to celebrate. It will spread with the help of artists and the participation of Niçoise community organizations. A popular and free event under a shower of mimosas!” Over 300 artists from various organizations, giant jellyfish, seahorses, dancers and performers give away nearly 20,000 mimosa flowers! It is a colorful, musical event that makes its way through various popular spots.
The true stars of the show are the parades. A novice, I thought that you would simply choose if you want to see it during the day or at night, but the two are completely different experiences, so we went to both!
La Bataille de Fleurs takes place during the day, starting at 2:30 pm. There are extravagant costumes, lively music, and enchanting performers that lead the way for charming floats covered in flowers. The first time around a well-behaved crowd waves and sways to the music, but the second time they pass, it is a contest to see who can gather the most impressive bouquets, as flowers are thrown into the audience. As they do this parade 4 times throughout Carnaval, the floats must be re-equipped with flowers each time! It is quite an explosion of color, and we caught it on a perfect, sunny, 60-degree day. Pure bliss. And of course, we proudly brought home our lovely bouquet!
Le Corso Illuminé or Carnival Parade of Lights, takes place in the evening, at 8:30 pm. There are 5 of them, with the final one followed by the “burning of the king” and a huge fireworks display. We chose to attend this one! This time we had standing spots in Place Masséna, so we got there plenty early to secure a spot in the front. The MC is tireless - encouraging the audience to stand, sway and dance. His energy is contagious, as even my husband started chanting "tout le monde, tout le monde, tout le monde" with him! The parade begins, of course with the king, and an explosion of confetti! The colors and lights make each float come alive and the performers are so engaging with spectators - it is truly a party! There is an adorable little boy next to us who seems to be a confetti magnet, and as the crowd is quite closely knit, at one point I realize I have confetti in my mouth!
The performers, the floats - everything is different from the afternoon parade, and I am so glad we decided to see both! After the parade, the crowd heads to the beach just behind the Opéra to see the burning of the king. As the king's float is huge and filled with mechanics, a smaller version of the papier mâché king is place on the beach, and slowly burned from inside.
Why burn the king? It is a symbolic burning of all of the negative aspects of winter, to make space for spring. Of course it also signifies the end of Carnaval, putting to rest the current theme. And much like the ashes of the Phoenix, from the ashes of the king, a new theme is born: "Vive la Reine" in 2026!
Le Carnaval des Frenchy - A 100% French music selection, a brunch service to satisfy every taste bud, and activities for all ages throughout the day: pétanque, inflatable structures, rodeo… A family-friendly event not to be missed, for fun, dancing, and getting together!
Lou Queernaval
A free event, the first gay carnival in France is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year! This event is proposed by the Nice LGBTQIA+ community in close collaboration with the City of Nice and the Nice Côte d’Azur Metropolis. Talented artists and dazzling drag queens welcome all to promote the values of sharing, inclusion and living together.
There are a few more miscellaneous events that take place, if you have the time and energy! Plan to bring a costume, be consumed by confetti, and take the most colorful photos of your trip!
La Fête du Citron
Formerly the top lemon producer in Europe, Menton is known as the lemon capital. The IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) Menton Lemon originates from the Menton area and is cultivated on an exceptional terroir. The mild climate and traditional agricultural techniques guarantee that this local fruit's distinctive flavor is highly esteemed by gourmets and renowned chefs, meriting a festival, bien sûr!
Amazing citrus sculptures line the main square for this festival attracting more than 200,000 visitors per year. Much like Carnaval, a variety of events are spread out over 15 days, including daytime and evening parades. We opted for the first Sunday parade, heeding the advice to get to town before 11 for the 2:30 parade. That gave us ample time to wander the craftsmanship market, where there was everything from lemonade and fresh squeezed orange juice, to the incredible Herbin jams. Every massive sculpture warranted many photos, as they were carefully adorned with whimsical citrus and floral landscapes. It was a bright sunny day, making the colors pop even more. We were able to walk by many of the floats as we made our way to our assigned seats, allowing us even more photo ops.
This year's theme was "Voyage dans les Etoiles" (Journey to the Stars) and featured astronauts, pilots and even UFOs, each more impressive than the last! My favorite float was of Le Petit Prince, paying homage to the writer and pilot St Exupéry. Just delightful.
Once again, the performers were were absolutely magical, with incredible costumes and makeup, and moving with such grace and enchantment. It was simply dazzling!
A word to the wise - the best way to get from Menton to Nice is by train, which will take around 30 minutes. The fact that some 30,000 people will ALL be taking said train over a few hours span, means that the line to take the train will take more than 30 minutes! Be patient, it is well-organized, and as Menton is the start/end of the line, they fill up one train and send it off!
Le Combat Naval Fleuri
This last event takes place only one day, but it is quite spectacular to attend! Located in the picturesque fishing village of Villefranche-sur-Mer, le Combat Naval Fleuri was held on Monday, February 17th. Fishing boats are completely decked out in an array of flowers, and pass by one-by-one along the coast. The second time around, the mariners, all wearing traditional navy and white stripes, throw flowers out to the most welcoming fans! Far from the fantastic floats and costumed performers of the other festivals, there is something almost poetic about these simple fishing boats, lovingly adorned with the simple beauty of flowers.
The colors, music and vibrant energy of these festivals will call me back again in February! It is also a great time to check out restaurants, museums and events at a time where there are a few less tourists milling about. Same time next year?
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